Sunday, May 15, 2011

Mention Corleone and the first thing that comes to mind is The Godfather. It is a beautiful town easily reached from the Palermo area and worth going to see for its' beauty and the transformation going on. There is, among the simple beauty and the townspeople who mimic their Sicilian counter parts in any other town, the new Anti mafia museum ( bottom) where inside one can see transcripts from the Maxi trials of the '90's as well as be given a history of the young but on going, Addio Pizzo movement to counter the influence of this dreaded group. The young man giving the tour in the museum is beside a panel of photos by the great Sicilian photographer, Letizia Battaglia.
The photo on the top right is of magistrate, Giovanni Falcone, assassinated by mafia thugs in May of 1992. The woman on the bottom left is Rosaria Schifani, widow of Vito Schifani ( also killed) who was Falcone's body guard on that fateful day. The photo is the cover of "PASSION,JUSTICE, FREEDOM..PHOTOGRAPHS OF SICILY by Signora Battaglia. Toto Riina, the most hated person in Sicily, is serving 4 life terms for ordering the assassinations of Falcone, magistrate Paolo Borsellino and countless others while being the most feared capo of the mafia.



Thursday, May 5, 2011

The scenery in Sicily is above phenomenal. This was taken from ENNA, the capital of the province of the same name and it overlooks Calascibetta. For sheer Baroque heaven, one must go to Noto and wander the streets of this walking friendly town known as ''Un giardino di pietra''
( a garden of stone).For a meal you won't soon forget at a price you will think is a mistake, find TRATTORIA del CARMINE in via Ducezio #1.
One of the finest places in all of Italy to buy ceramics is in CALTAGIRONE situated in the hills around Enna. easy to get to and a walking gem. Characteristically, the ceramics produced here are the signature yellow and blue and all hand made. Make sure you walk the 142 steps of La Scala bounded by shops on both sides.
I took my cousin to pranzo at a beautiful Agriturismo in Leonforte and found this shed while walking around between courses.


Wednesday, April 20, 2011

The lovely seaport of Favignana, one of the Egadi islands, just 17 km off the western coast of Sicily. Ferries offer easy transport especially during the busy summer months. Although this salumeria may resemble the one in Lipari that once graced the cover of an edition of Frommer's travel guide, it is not. Rather, it was made in Cefalu` walking from the main road to the beach. Put aside any fears you may have about driving in Sicilia as the roads, including this secondary one in the western area leading to San Vito Lo Capo, are in excellent condition. On this spot in Salemi in May of 1860, Garibaldi issued his declaration proclaiming himself "Dictator of Sicily" for Victor Emmanuel. Salemi, with its' castle and cobbled, narrow, windy streets bears witness to its' incredible Arab influence. On the road to Erice, I was taken by this tree seemingly lost in the clouds that would perfectly describe medieval Erice.



Tuesday, April 5, 2011


So It is Primavera in Sicily and with that comes Easter and the beginning of "Wedding season".
Good Friday evening there is usually a procession beginning with a candle light walk through the town which in this case is Taormina. Processions such as this one in Leonforte, are carried out every Easter Sunday. Especially in Taormina, weddings are really an event due to the number of tourists who are ever present. Some brides will walk the length of the Corso Umberto to arrive at the church while others will come by the (American) traditional car.


Sunday, March 27, 2011


In Catania, "Monggibeddu" is ever present. Every day in Catania there is the open air market where one can buy all the food needed for any day. Of particular interest to me are the pescivendoli ( people who sell fish) This gentleman is hawking his prize tuna seemingly unaware of the danger of the knife ever so close to his hand.
The area around Etna is so fertile and rich in historical value and what it produces to feed its people. Passing through Linguaglossa, I spotted this little store whose name was so appropriate. Klaus Mandanici, was the proud owner of one of the finest restaurants in Sicily which used to be called La Cantina. One day, quite by accident, my wife spotted it on a journey down from the mountain area. We have been loyal followers ever since.
I was however devastated when, going there last month, I saw a sign in the window indicating he had closed. Upon further reading, I realized he had moved to another location also in Santa Venerina ( Whew)! We found it easily, congratulated Klaus on his new location and ate a meal one only dreams of here in America. The image inside the restaurant is of the new one called Pane, Vino e Companatico. It is on Via Vitt. Emmanuele 202 - 204 in Santa Venerina tel 095 954 44 44. If you are interested I can give you very simple directions.


Wednesday, March 16, 2011

I have this "thing" for infrared especially in the context of Sicily as it lends a sense of mysteriousness to an island, a place, a phenomenon whose lure is as seductive as its' history is tortured. It begs one to explore yet hiding all it does not intend to disclose. I was in Enna and made these images of Calascibetta from the high hill Enna sits on. The only vertical seen here is of the area near Catenanuova on the autostrada fairly close to Catania



Tuesday, March 15, 2011


Well, one week in Sicilia is not enough but once again, I must be thankful. I caught these two love birds in a "Carnevale Moment" in Leonforte. The gentleman who was kind enough to look straight at me without prompting sells fruits and candies during the festa in Acireale. In Enna, there are spectacular views, and in particular, of neighboring Calascibetta. The weather upon arrival was not the normal, "nice" as this image of a storm in Sant'Alessio suggests. The pistacchio pizza I had in Enna was, without a doubt, the BEST I have EVER eaten!